Safeguarding Heritage: Neihunuo Sorhie to win the National Handloom Award

Neihunuo Sorhie, National Handloom Award recipient, 2007 displaying some of her works in her store in Kohima. (Morung Photo)

Neihunuo Sorhie, National Handloom Award recipient, 2007 displaying some of her works in her store in Kohima. (Morung Photo)

Vibi Yhokha Sophie
Kohima | August 4

59 years old Neihunuo Sorhie remembers learning to weave at the young age of seven, when her mother told her that she, being the only girl in her family, must learn to weave shawls for her brother.

The sole Naga recipient for the National Handloom Award in 2007, Neihunuo Sorhie will be receiving the National Handloom Award yet again on August 7, 2022.

At a young age, Sorhie learned the art of traditional Naga loinloom weaving from her mother, aunts and friends. Sorhie recalls her mother at the age of 96, helping her spin the yarn before she passed in 2021.

“I have always regretted not being able to pursue education but someone told me that I wouldn't be where I am today if I had pursued education,” says Sorhie who is also a recipient of the Sant Kabir Award - an Indian Government award conferred to outstanding weavers who have made valuable contribution in keeping handloom heritage alive. 

She has represented Nagaland in various National and International handloom events too. Earlier this year, Sorhie represented India in Paris where she had the opportunity to greet Prime Minister Narendra Modi at Le BHV Marais, Paris.

A mentor & guide
Sorhie has mentored and guided many women in learning the age old Naga craft, some of whom went on to open their own handicraft stores. She has trained over 300 people, besides running a handicraft store in Kohima for about 20 years. Her store located at Grace Complex, Kohima is a favorite hangout location for neighbouring store owners/ entrepreneurs where they are often engaged in learning new craftwork.

In the traditional handicraft circle, Sorhie is well known for her meticulous 'attention to detail' patterns in her traditional weaves; and more so for her creative original art motifs.

Besides loinloom, Sorhie is skilled in knitting, creating decorative pieces with local products,   crafting traditional jewelleries. Weaving cushion covers with traditional motifs and crafting tea coasters with indigenous motifs were some of the original designs that Neihunuo introduced, which are now widely produced by others.

A firm believer in maintaining originality, Sorhie says, “Creating your own art requires so much time and patience, but there is value and worth. My only regret is that once your designs are out in the market, it's not yours anymore, you allow others to copy your designs.”

In loinloom weaving, the process of designing patterns and motifs are the ones that Sorhie enjoys the most. “I find so much inspiration from the colorful patterns in butterflies. Butterflies always amaze me. I am very meticulous about my work, so I take a lot of time to finish my products. The finishing touch is always important in handicrafts,” adds Sorhie.
Patenting indigenous heritage 

In her view, an artisan works best when focusing on one's own designs. Originality also provides the artist the liberty to be creative. “If you are going to copy someone else's work, you have to be better than them. When you copy someone's work, you have to prove your worth by producing a better work than theirs,” opines Sorhie.

In this regard, Sorhie shares her concern in patenting one's indigenous heritage. For years, she has been voicing concern for Nagas to patent the handicraft tools that are indigenous to Nagas.

Sorhie takes immense pride in the handicraft creativity of Nagas. “We Nagas when it comes to handicrafts, we are capable in one craft or the other. However, this skill and art must come out willingly; one cannot force people to learn.

Youngsters these days have very little interest in traditional handicrafts, except for their mobile phones,” she rues.

Passionate about passing this trade to younger women, Sorhie always encourages her trainees to make mistakes. “When you want to learn something, you are interested in trying and mistakes come along with the learning process. If you put your heart into it, you always learn,” Sorhie advises.

Epitome of empowerment
Wecheteü Kapfo, an entrepreneur and owner of 'Unlimited Maternity and Children' store, who has known Sorhie for almost 8 years regards her as an epitome of women empowerment.

“Ania, as we lovingly call her, is so giving and generous. She never hesitates to share her knowledge and skills. And she teaches with a lot of humility. She not only teaches and directs but works along with her trainees,” says Kapfo.

Another quality that stands out in Sorhie's craft, according to Kapfo, is the incorporation of modern designs in her works.
“Through people like Ania, a lot of younger generation have been taught and inspired to take up this traditional craft. People like Ania are not just preserving but also safeguarding our heritage,” says Kapfo

Reviving the craft of loinloom
A disappointing scene, Sorhie has observed, is that many in the villages have stopped practicing the craft of loinloom weaving and often dispose away loinloom tools. Further, with the introduction of mechanised handicraft tools, the traditional loinloom is losing practise. Sorhie rues that the government lacks focus in the area of promoting and preserving Naga traditional handicrafts and engaging with local artisans.

“These handicrafts must be learned and taught to our children, because there will also come a time when we come to the realisation of preserving and understanding the importance of our heritage. This realisation is slowly returning. It is my deep desire that all of us, especially women, learn this skill not to earn a livelihood but to preserve our heritage, our culture,” asserts Neihunuo.

In the future, Sorhie aspires to open a loinloom training centre for youngsters. “But age is catching up with me,” she remarks.

Sorhie also advocates the need for young Nagas to understand and be confident of one's own culture. “This is a valuable heritage which our ancestors have passed on to us, and it will be tragic if we lose this heritage. It is worrisome to imagine an age old practice losing its relevance in today's world,” says Sorhie.

Neihunuo Sorhie will be receiving the National Handloom Award on August 7, 2022 in New Delhi.